Why go
Khevsureti lies in the far northeast of Georgia, where the main Caucasus ridge splits it into a southern side around Barisakho and a northern side reached over the Datvisjvari Pass. The Khevsurs guarded these northern approaches for centuries, building the tower villages that still define the valleys. Shatili, a tight cluster of around 60 connected towers, is the main base, with Mutso, the Anatori crypts and smaller fortresses along the road. On the southern side, Roshka is the starting point for the colourful Abudelauri Lakes. Come for at least two nights: the drive is long, and the villages are best seen in the quiet of morning and evening.
When to go
Visit from the end of May to the middle of October, when the road over the Datvisjvari Pass is normally passable. Snow covers the high ground for four to five months, and fog can roll over the pass at any time of year, so check conditions before setting out.
Getting there
Shatili is about 150 km from Tbilisi by road, past the Zhinvali Reservoir and up the Aragvi valley through Barisakho, then over the Datvisjvari Pass at 2,676 m. Allow at least four hours. Use an experienced local driver and a vehicle suited to unpaved mountain roads.
The trade-off
The road is long and the pass can be closed or dangerous in fog or snow. Facilities are basic, cash is essential, and the area near Shatili is close to the border with Russia. It is not a day trip from Tbilisi.
