Why go
Tusheti lies on the northern side of the Caucasus, cut off from the rest of Georgia for much of the year. Its only road crosses the Abano Pass and opens from about the end of May to September. Omalo is the main village and the practical base, with Keselo's towers above it and family guesthouses below. From there, walks and horse rides lead to Dartlo, Shenako, Diklo and the Pirikiti valley. Many Tush families still spend summers here with their flocks and winter in the Alvani villages of Kakheti. Come for several days: the journey in is long, and the reward is time in the villages and high pastures.
When to go
The Abano Pass road is usually open from about the end of May to September and is closed by snow for the rest of the year. July and August are the most dependable months for hiking and horse riding; early and late in the season, snow and rain can close the road at short notice.
Getting there
Drive from Tbilisi into Kakheti, then take the Abano Pass road from the Alvani area: about 72 km of unpaved mountain road, crossing almost 3,000 m and taking at least four hours in a 4WD. Use an experienced local driver rather than a rental car. Outside the road season, access is by helicopter only.
The trade-off
The road is long, rough and weather-dependent, and it is not a day trip. Facilities are basic, cash is essential, and mobile coverage is patchy. Plan spare days in case the pass closes, and bring everything you need for mountain weather.
